More Floor Timber Work – Part 04
As I was building each floor timber, I kept track of “which one was which” by marking each one on its bottom side with an ink marker. However, once tipped upright, there were no markings for me to see. It was getting confusing to know which floor timber was which, and where it’s location was to be inside the hull! (I had already made TWO of the same floor timber because I got confused as to which ones I had already made!)
I didn’t want to use an ink marker on the visible surfaces of the timber for a couple of reasons. The first reason was, I have horrible handwriting! The second reason was, I knew that the ink would “smear and run” from the solvents that were present in the epoxy solution I was going to coat the floor timbers with.
I decided to “stamp” each floor timber with markings that would ensure their proper identification.
I purchased a set of 5/16 inch “Letter & Number” stamps through Amazon.com.
Using the numbered stamps, I embossed a mark on top of each floor timber; right where a keel bolt would pass through it. These numbers matched up with the “mapping system” I had jotted down in the journal notebook entry I made for the floor timbers.
I also stamped the outboard ends of each floor timber as well. “P” stood for “Port” and “S” stood for “Starboard”. Doing this let me know which side of the floor timber was facing forward and which side was facing aft. I couldn’t “flip-flop” them by mistake with the timbers marked as such.
Once the floor timbers had been given two coats of epoxy sealer, and had been appropriately marked with their numbers and locations, I sanded down the surfaces of the timbers to prepare them for their first coat of regular epoxy.
Applying the first coat of System Three epoxy.
When the first coat of epoxy had cured, I drove the galvanized sill bolts down through the floor timbers.
They settled in quite nicely!
I added a washer and a nut, and I cinched up each fastener as tight as I could.
Using my “cutoff disc”, I removed the excess length of threads above each nut.
My next step was to flip each floor timber upside down to expose the bottom ends of the sill bolts.
I mixed up a thickened pot of epoxy, (Think of a very thick, but pourable pea soup!)…….
……..and, I filled each sill bolt hole with the glue; sealing up this area against water infiltration.
Once that epoxy had cured, I ground off the excess until the filler was flush with the surrounding surface.
Finally, I sanded down all of the surfaces one last time, and I gave each floor timber a second and final coat of System Three epoxy.