Sept 28 to Oct 01, 2015 – Removing Old Frames and Fitting New Ones – Part 03
With the new frames back in my shop, I laid out where I wanted the new fastenings to be.
The old frames had one screw through the frame head and into the chine log. There was also one screw that fastened the foot of the frame to the keelson. There were just two screws that fastened the frame to the floor timber. And, there were the screws that fastened the frame to the skin of the hull. Along with these fasteners, there was also the use of resorcinol glue between the frame and the hull skin, chine log, keelson, and between the face of the frame and the face of the floor timber.
The glue joint between the floor timber and frame had failed. It had also failed between the keelson and the foot of the frame. The fastenings in these areas had also failed; rotting away.
I decided that I wanted to really “beef up” the weak areas that were present in the original design of the boat. Below is the system that I came up with.
I drilled three 3/8″ diameter holes through the face of each frame in the foot area. These holes will allow three 3/8″ diameter galvanized bolts to pass through the frame and through the floor timber. The mating surfaces of the frame and floor timber will also be glued together with epoxy.
Positioning the frames against the floor timber so that I can mark the corresponding holes of the frames on to the face of the floor timber.
With everything clamped firmly in place, I drilled a 3/8″ diameter clearance hole through the head of the frame. This will allow for a 3″ long, 3/8″diameter, galvanized lag bolt that will be much stronger than just the original countersunk screw!
In similar fashion, I will be adding two 3/8″ diameter lag bolts through the foot of each frame that will bite into the keelson.
To fasten the frame to the floor timber, I decided to make my own 3/8″ diameter bolts. The simple reason for this is; expense. By threading the ends of some 3/8″ galvanized spikes, I save 50% of what it would cost to purchase actual bolts. Besides, I really didn’t like the fact that the bolts that I had access to were threaded their entire length. I just wanted threads where I needed them to be; right at the end.
For this step, I used the actual spike to mark where the frame holes needed to be on the face of the floor timber.
I drilled the floor timber for the new frame bolts.
Back inside the boat, everything dry-fit together perfectly!
Kind of looks medieval doesn’t it!
I was able to carry the whole frame / floor timber unit out of the boat in into my shop. It was solid!
I separated the frames from the floor timber and began applying coats of System Three’s CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer), followed by, System Three general epoxy.
While the frames were drying, I turned my attention to the fastenings that I need to prepare for the installation of the new frames and floor timber.
Here they are.
I measured the spikes to the lengths that they needed to be cut to, and using my 4″ grinder and a metal cut-off disc, I lopped off their ends.
Using my bench grinder, I squared up the ends of the spikes and then ground a bevel so that a threading die would start easily.
I cut new threads about one inch in from the end of the spike / now bolt.
And, another coat of epoxy brushed on to the frames. Very soon, I will be able to actually put wood BACK in to the boat!
By cutting the spikes and threading them, are you removing the galvanizing?